Prompted by the phrase "Common sense isn't always common practice," from Trevor Ragan of Learner Lab, Nate and Kris sat down to discuss five aspects of climbing where they see this holding true. This is the final of those five aspects: principle vs. prescription in climbing training.

This episode originally aired on March 23, 2018.

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🔍 EXPLORE FURTHER

You might enjoy these related articles, episodes, and other resources:

Kris’s new book, Adapt: Lessons Learned Climbing 100 5.13’s, is out now!

Dale Wilson | Climbing Performance Metrics

Board Meetings | Should Climbers Train Where They Are or Where They Want To Be?

Board Meetings | Should Climbers Generalize or Specialize?

Board Meetings | The Pros and Cons of Grade Pyramids vs. Towers

Board Meetings | The Quality vs. Quantity Conundrum in Climbing

Trevor Ragan | Fixed vs. Growth Mindset

Trevor Ragan | Motor Learning

_________________________

🔌 SUPPORT + CONNECT

Help us keep the show sponsor-free when you join our Patreon Community for as little as $3.

Get two or more bonus episodes every month on Patreon, Spotify, or Apple.

Subscribe to THE CURRENT and get a monthly exploration of how we can all become better climbers.

Find Nate on Instagram and YouTube.

Find Power Company on Instagram and YouTube.

Share this episode with a friend who needs to hear it.

_________________________

The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.

Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

Prompted by the phrase "Common sense isn't always common practice," from Trevor Ragan of Learner Lab, Nate and Kris sat down to discuss five aspects of climbing where they see this holding true. This is the fourth of those five aspects: Training where you are currently instead of where you want to be.

Starting where you are is an important first step that is often missed.

This episode originally aired on March 22, 2018.

_________________________

🔍 EXPLORE FURTHER

You might enjoy these related articles, episodes, and other resources:

Kris’s new book, Adapt: Lessons Learned Climbing 100 5.13’s, is out now!

Board Meetings | Should Climbers Generalize or Specialize?

Board Meetings | The Pros and Cons of Grade Pyramids vs. Towers

Board Meetings | The Quality vs. Quantity Conundrum in Climbing

Trevor Ragan | Fixed vs. Growth Mindset

Trevor Ragan | Motor Learning

_________________________

🔌 SUPPORT + CONNECT

Help us keep the show sponsor-free when you join our Patreon Community for as little as $3.

Get two or more bonus episodes every month on Patreon, Spotify, or Apple.

Subscribe to THE CURRENT and get a monthly exploration of how we can all become better climbers.

Find Nate on Instagram and YouTube.

Find Power Company on Instagram and YouTube.

Share this episode with a friend who needs to hear it.

_________________________

The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.

Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

Prompted by the phrase "Common sense isn't always common practice," from Trevor Ragan of Learner Lab, Nate and Kris sat down to discuss five aspects of climbing where they see this holding true. This is the third of those five aspects: should climbers generalize or specialize?

There is a time to grow your skill set, but it can also be appropriate to focus on one aspect of it. But how do we know when to do which?

This episode originally aired on March 21, 2018.

_________________________

🔍 EXPLORE FURTHER

You might enjoy these related articles, episodes, and other resources:

Kris’s new book, Adapt: Lessons Learned Climbing 100 5.13’s, is out now!

Board Meetings | The Pros and Cons of Grade Pyramids vs. Towers

Board Meetings | The Quality vs. Quantity Conundrum in Climbing

Trevor Ragan | Fixed vs. Growth Mindset

Trevor Ragan | Motor Learning

_________________________

🔌 SUPPORT + CONNECT

Help us keep the show sponsor-free when you join our Patreon Community for as little as $3.

Get two or more bonus episodes every month on Patreon, Spotify, or Apple.

Subscribe to THE CURRENT and get a monthly exploration of how we can all become better climbers.

Find Nate on Instagram and YouTube.

Find Power Company on Instagram and YouTube.

Share this episode with a friend who needs to hear it.

_________________________

The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.

Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

Prompted by the phrase "Common sense isn't always common practice," from Trevor Ragan of Learner Lab, Nate and Kris sat down to discuss five aspects of climbing where they see this holding true. This is the second of those five aspects: the pros and cons of building a grade pyramid vs. a tower.

Is one better than the other? When is each appropriate? How might one or the other impact your future climbing?

This episode originally aired on March 20, 2018.

_________________________

🔍 EXPLORE FURTHER

You might enjoy these related articles, episodes, and other resources:

Kris’s new book, Adapt: Lessons Learned Climbing 100 5.13’s, is out now!

Board Meetings | The Quality vs. Quantity Conundrum in Climbing

Trevor Ragan | Fixed vs. Growth Mindset

Trevor Ragan | Motor Learning

_________________________

🔌 SUPPORT + CONNECT

Help us keep the show sponsor-free when you join our Patreon Community for as little as $3.

Get two or more bonus episodes every month on Patreon, Spotify, or Apple.

Subscribe to THE CURRENT and get a monthly exploration of how we can all become better climbers.

Find Nate on Instagram and YouTube.

Find Power Company on Instagram and YouTube.

Share this episode with a friend who needs to hear it.

_________________________

The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.

Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

Prompted by the phrase "Common sense isn't always common practice," from Trevor Ragan of Learner Lab, Nate and Kris sat down to discuss five aspects of climbing where they see this holding true. This is the first of those five aspects: the Quality vs. Quantity Conundrum in Climbing.

So what is it, where does it often happen, and how can we make sure we are getting the right thing – quality or quantity – in our climbing?

This episode originally aired on March 19, 2018.

_________________________

🔍 EXPLORE FURTHER

You might enjoy these related articles, episodes, and other resources:

Kris’s new book, Adapt: Lessons Learned Climbing 100 5.13’s, is out now!

Trevor Ragan | Fixed vs. Growth Mindset

Trevor Ragan | Motor Learning

_________________________

🔌 SUPPORT + CONNECT

Help us keep the show sponsor-free when you join our Patreon Community for as little as $3.

Get two or more bonus episodes every month on Patreon, Spotify, or Apple.

Subscribe to THE CURRENT and get a monthly exploration of how we can all become better climbers.

Find Nate on Instagram and YouTube.

Find Power Company on Instagram and YouTube.

Share this episode with a friend who needs to hear it.

_________________________

The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.

Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

Kris sits down in Wyoming with two absolute legends from the 80’s, Jibé Tribout and Arnould T’Kint, to talk about Patrick Edlinger and the birth of sport climbing as we know it.

Belgian climbing legend Arnould T’Kint did the third 8a in the world, and the first outside of the US, as well as reportedly being the first to onsight 8a.

Jibé Tribout is a French and world climbing legend who, through the 80’s and 90’s, was always at the leading edge of difficulty, from 13a to 14c.

They discuss:

• Pushing grades in the 80's.
• The origins of free-climbing as a pursuit.
• The rivalry between Tribout and Patrick Edlinger.
• The scene at Buoux and Verdon in the 80's.
• The benefits of friendly competition at the crag.
• The first actual comps.
• Tribout playing the villain.

Check out more here!

Join the Secret Stoners Club for FREE.

----------------------------------

Season Two is generously supported by Rab.

Written in Stone is co-created with Power Company Climbing.

An update on where we've been, where we're going, and my new book, Adapt: Lessons Learned Climbing 100 5.13's.

Check out the new book!

Joy Black is a mother of three, and a strength and climbing coach specializing in working with pregnant and postpartum climbers. In this episode, Kris and Joy go trimester by trimester, looking at training and logistical considerations for pregnant climbers and their partners.

Check out all of Joy's courses.

Sign up for Joy's newsletter.

Save 50% on your first month of Beta for the Bump training using code PCCBFTB at checkout!

Get on the waitlist for The Postpartum Project training.

_________________________

🔍 EXPLORE FURTHER

You might enjoy these related articles, episodes, and other resources:

Sport Climber Experiences of Pregnancy and Return-to-Sport Postpartum Research Study Survey

Teal Dreher’s Pregnancy & Postpartum Climbing blog

Climbing Training and Pregnancy: My Journey, with coach Jess West

Beth Rodden | Climbing and Parenting

Allyson Gunsallus | The Challenges of Parenting as a Climber

_________________________

🔌 SUPPORT + CONNECT

Help us keep the show sponsor-free when you join our Patreon Community for as little as $3.

Get two or more bonus episodes every month on Patreon, Spotify, or Apple.

Subscribe to THE CURRENT and get a monthly exploration of how we can all become better climbers.

Find Power Company on Instagram and YouTube.

Share this episode with a friend who needs to hear it.

_________________________

The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.

Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

_________________________

📚 CHAPTERS

(00:00:00) Intro

(00:02:05) How Joy Found this Niche

(00:16:37) Empowerment and Vulnerability

(00:31:31) Joy’s Overarching Philosophy

(00:38:55) Disclaimers and Contraindications

(00:41:48) First Trimester

(00:44:07) ANNOTATION: Evidence Based vs. Evidence Informed

(01:01:13) ANNOTATION: Beta for the Bump

(01:10:50) Second Trimester

(01:19:50) ANNOTATION: Diastasis, Deep Core, Linea Alba

(01:36:23) Third Trimester

(01:58:34) Wrap Up

(02:04:48) Outro